Date of Birth:
May 13, 1986
Grand Junction, CO
What is your primary means of adventure?
Invent your dream adventure by combining five places, disciplines, pitches, peaks, environments, etc. and stacking them together in a combination. Why did you pick each part?
- I would want to take my family to South Africa to experience the complex and amazing continent and all of the adventure there within. At the same time there are some amazing single and multipitch walls that need some attention, and I’d try to establish new routes.
- From there I would like to travel back towards Malawi on a road trip finding
- Take a plane from Africa, to Nepal and explore the limitless potential new routing.
- From Nepal I would travel through China experiencing the culture and limestone multi-pitch adventures.
- From China I would take the long haul and finish my adventure in Australia, where I would take planes, trains, and automobiles to the Grampians to enjoy the wonders of the Taipan wall, my favorite area on earth.
Describe 5 climbs, trips, or moments that have defined you as a mountain athlete.
- Finishing Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (5.13+) was a moment in my traditional climbing career that I discovered what it meant to dedicate myself. I’d only started traditional climbing 8 months prior and being able to focus and mentally overcome the fear was crucial to my development.
- Traveling through Malawi. Experiencing Africa and being outside of my comfort zone was unbelievable there. I didn’t think that I had the courage to leave my hometown to board a plane alone and explore another country so different from anything I had ever experienced.
- Establishing Solar Fusion 8a. Big walling is incredibly new to me. I have a fear of heights that made me focus on bouldering for the majority of my climbing career. Being able to perform my best over a thousand feet above the ground pushed my mental game to new limits that were difficult to reach before. Random bouldering a crags between there and Lilongwe.
- Finishing Gutless Wonder 8c. This was a test of patience. I climbed my first 5.14a in 8 attempts. This one took my over 40 tries to get. I was so frustrated, broken, and depressed with the journey on this route; but I kept going back. I learned that my drive overrode my emotions; which helped me identify my motivation.
- Learning how to train for what I want. Things don’t come easily and if you want to get better it requires work, dedication, and sacrifice. Learning how to actually practice these traits has helped me the most, because your approach to something is generally the most difficult aspect of it.
Describe your most memorable night in the mountains.
Spending the night on a portaledge in Madagascar. Over 1,000 feet above the ground, I awoke in the middle of the night and looked up into the stars. There was no light from any city, town, or village. There were no fires– there was only the light from the sky. It was amazing. It made me feel so small with the wall and the sky next to each other, with me a tiny speck. I felt connected and greatly humbled.
What has scared you or intimidated you?
There was one moment when I was climbing a big wall in Brazil. I was over 40 feet above my last bolt and broke a hold and almost took the fall on an onsight pitch 2,000 feet up. I remember feeling cold, calm, and hyperaware that if I fell I would potentially break something. I continued the climb for another 15 feet before I found a bolt and when I clipped it the emotions flooded in. It took a lot to regain control and continue on.
What would your adventure partner be most surprised to learn about you from before the time when they met you?
Not much really, they already accept the weirdness that is me.
What are you top 5 all time favorite pieces of CAMP equipment?
Why are you a CAMP athlete?
CAMP equipment matches my style. The idea of adventure and exploration is what drives me in the sport and the idea of moving as light and fast as possible is something that I try to strive for. When I am on a big wall, or stressing to clip I know that if something happens it was because I failed and not my gear.
It meant a lot to me when I climbed:
1. Solar Fusion the first ascent of a big wall route in the isolated southern region of Madagascar.
2. Hearts and Arrows on the Diamond in Estes Park. My first big wall that I absolutely failed on, but it gave me a baseline and drive to get better on ropes, trad. gear, and mental fitness.
3. Gutless Wonder proof that hard work and dedication pays off.
4. New lines that need the proper attention but had been ignored.
5. Frank Zappa Appreciation Society
The adventure, route, or race I had to train the hardest for was:
All of it.
The one that wreaked me the most.
The Exponential Challenge with Rob Pizem: During a spring break trip Rob and I went on a week bender of painful climbing. The first day was establishing a new tower route. The second day was two 600 foot multipitches. The third day was four desert towers. The fourth day was 8 desert pitches. The fifth day was 16 Rifle routes. The sixth day was 32 Clear Creek Routes. The seventh… well that was 64 Shelf Road routes. My skin was mangled, soul crushed, and shoes destroyed. I was wrecked for two weeks afterwards.
I most want an all expense trip paid to:
Australia for three months.
My short list of climbing or adventure goals this year:
- Finish my Multipitch project in Colorado.
- Establish 5 5.14’s.
- Desert Towers
- Climb better!