Date of Birth:
April 19, 1979
What is your primary means of adventure, AKA what gets you most psyched?
Guiding at the “cutting edge”- long rock traverses like the Evolution Traverse, hard alpine classics like Hunter’s West Ridge, and fly-in ski base camps like I just finished in Alaska’s Chugach. Also, personal missions to obscure, relatively sloggy, ski and climbing objectives. I’m not the best climber on the mountain, but I’m not the smartest either.
Invent your dream adventure by combining five places, disciplines, pitches, peaks, environments, etc. and stacking them together into a combination. Why did you pick each part?
I would fly in an Alaskan wheel-ski plane to the wild Saint Elias mountains. Once there, we would sit out an 11 day storm with an unlimited supply of iPhone sitcoms. We’d then dig out, and drop from camp down perfect powder into the Grand Teton’s Ford-Stettner ski run. From the bottom of that we’d climb Yosemite’s Widows Tears ice route while the rock dried. Then we’d ditch the ice gear to climb the Steck-Salathe. My wife would meet me after the Steck-Salathe for a few days of r and r before she and I set out to shiver bivy along the Palisade Traverse. Except that the Palisade Traverse would be set in Western Wyoming’s wildlife safari.
Describe 5 climbs, trips, or moments that have defined you as a mountain athlete:
- Toss-up between college “Ballet 101” class in 2000 and tearing my ACL in 2002. Each of these events pointed out the value in considering oneself, simultaneously, an athlete and a student. I learned about training, progression, and discipline.
- Skiing California’s “Great Western Divide” Trans-Sierra tour in 2003. This write up tells that story, basically. https://www.wildsnow.com/18500/mentoring-backcountry-skier/
- The process of attaining IFMGA guide certification between 2007 and 2013. It’s hard, comprehensive, absolute, subjective, and ridiculous. Just like a well-rounded mountain life.
- Hummingbird Ridge attempt, 2014. Scared myself silly. Sure, the crumbling cornices were frightening, but the most alarming part was how it didn’t crush my mojo. I kind of “got off” on it a little. That’s messed up.
- Every time I put rock shoes back on. The draw of alpine climbing and ski mountaineering is ubiquitous. I’m always stoked to ski and climb mountains. I never need to be reminded of that. I have a harder time remembering how cool rock climbing is. I can leave it for months at a time, without thinking, training, or preparing for rock climbing. But then I’ll climb a few pitches and “get it” all over again. It’s a resurrection every single time.
Describe your most memorable night in the mountains:
Bar hopping in Zermatt… Or the Owens River Gorge “10-10-10-10-40 Challenge”. I like mountain partying. Almost as much as I like expedition sitcoms.
What has scared or intimidated you as a mountain athlete?
Double cornices. I mean, I’ve been there and I still don’t understand how they form.
What would your adventure partners be most surprised to learn about you from before the time when they met you?
I think I’m pretty transparent. Even the fact that I took “Ballet 101” in college doesn’t surprise many.
What are your top 5 all-time favorite pieces of CAMP equipment?
Why are you a CAMP athlete?
Lightweight yet bomber gear is key to succeeding on big routes, or remote climbs where every gram counts against your odds of success.
It meant a lot to me when I climbed:
- My first Buttermilk boulder problem
- The Palisade Traverse
- The Grand Teton, for the first time.
- Mount Hunter
- El Capitan
The adventure, route or race I had to train the hardest for was:
Logan’s Hummingbird Ridge
The adventure, route or race that wrecked me the most was:
The first winter ascent of the Palisade Traverse
I most want an all-expenses-paid trip to:
My short list of climbing or adventure goals this year:
- Rock climb harder.
- Train a super-good, long-term client to rock climb harder with greater confidence.
- Stay motivated through two months of AK expeditions…