2020 Craggin Classic Digital Edition Clinics
Information: https://americanalpineclub.org/ccs-clinics
Registration: https://www.accelevents.com/e/CragginClassic
Legs, Lungs AND Fingers
Tyler Allen
As alpinists, we strive for a unique kind of fitness where we can climb at a high level and press through the cardio/endurance elements typical of the big mountains. We need legs and lungs, but we also need fingers, forearms and footwork! It is a complicated thing to train for and even more complicated to benchmark. My clinic is all about sharing what I’ve learned, know and do in my quest to bring it all together.
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Monday, October 19 @ 9:15 am MS / Thursday, October 22 @ 8:15 pm MST
About Tyler: I am psyched on big days out. Long rock routes, alpine climbs, or trail runs are my cup of tea. I see all of my high-volume days as perfect training for the big hills. I’m constantly focusing on being a more efficient and powerful climber, and keeping my stoke high as I work toward becoming a top-level American Mountain Guide (AMGA/IFMGA).
Finding Flow State
Nate Smith
In positive psychology, a flow state, also known colloquially as being in the zone, is the mental state in which a person performing some activity is fully immersed in a feeling of energized focus, full involvement, and enjoyment in the process of the activity. In essence, flow is characterized by the complete absorption in what one does, and a resulting transformation in one’s sense of time. This is how Wikipedia defines flow state. In my experience, achieving flow state (or not) is the difference between success and failure on big objectives. But how do we achieve flow state when we are in the mountains with all the stresses of modern life? If this is a challenge for you, then this clinic is for you.
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Monday, October 19 @ 10:30 am MST / Thursday, October 22 @ 4:45 pm MST
About Nate: As an alpine climber, guide, business owner, higher education administrator and Ph.D., Nate Smith has had a lot of practice balancing a busy schedule and competing priorities. Nate’s passion for climbing, skiing and trail running, combined with his desire to pursue his career and maintain healthy relationships with family and friends, has resulted in a big pursuit to figure out the ultimate life balance. Efficiency, planning ahead, remaining dedicated to training, reducing stress, building positive partnerships– these are a few strategies used by Nate when moving light and fast in the mountains, being present at home, and producing results at work.
Technology for Self-Supported Endurance Objectives
Sarah Morris
This clinic is about incorporating modern technology into big mountain objectives. These are the tools that help us with trip planning, training, and everything else it takes to be prepared for the best shot at success. Examples of trips from my recent history are the Infinity Loop on Mount Rainier, the Infinity Loop on Mount Hood, and the WURL in Utah. As alpinists, we use these kinds of objectives both as missions in themselves and as training for light and fast alpinism. The tools we will review help bring these objectives down to size.
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Monday, October 19 @ 4:45 pm MST / Wednesday, October 21 @ 9:15 am MST
About Sarah: Born and raised in a remote corner of Northern California, Sarah Morris is a mountain endurance athlete who is most happy when she is on the move in wilderness terrain. Her dedication to combining alpine rock, ice and snow climbing with ultra running has led to accomplishments of big multi-sport endurance efforts like the Rainier Infinity Loop and Illiniza Sur and Norte trailhead to trailhead link up. Recently, Sarah moved to Pennsylvania to pursue her career in higher education and is enjoying learning how to navigate the jungles of the east coast with big trail runs and adventurous climbing.
Maximizing Your Crag Day
Rob Pizem
I am a teacher, father, climber and adventurer. When I lived out of my van, I could climb as much as my body would allow. Now, I have to pack it in when I have the time. This shift has made me think hard about how to maximize every second of my precious climbing days … whether they are new-routing in Zion or pitch-stacking in Unaweep. Maximizing your crag days is both about maximizing the moment and prepping for the next level. Thinking in this way, it is important to maximize each and every crag day because each and every crag day is part of your progression. Let’s do it!
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Monday, October 19 @ 4:45 pm MST / Wednesday, October 21 @ 6:15 pm MST
About Rob: Rob has been playing outside his entire life. As he grew older, his passion fell on rock climbing. With a positive, hardworking, never going to quit attitude, he chose to attempt to reach his personal potential with climbing. After 25 plus years of routes, travel, and first-ascenting, he has established new boulders, big walls, sport and traditional climbs and everything you can imagine in between. Currently, he teaches science at an alternative high school in western Colorado, raises his 2 sons, trains/mentors mountain athletes and plays in the mountains.
All the Coils!
Jed Porter
Carry, deploy, stow, store, organize, shorten, lengthen, and prevent tangles in your climbing rope. You go climbing to go climbing, not to manage your rope. Learn new and refine old rope coiling techniques like the backpack coil, mountaineers coil, stacking, stack flipping, lap coils, hand coils, kiwi coil, pack bucket … and more. All you will need is a rope and a harness. Bonus points for having a backpack and a door-jammed anchor (close a knotted sling into the top edge of a door). See you soon!
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Tuesday, October 20 @ 6:15 pm MST / Thursday, October 22 @ 8:15 pm MST
About Jed: Jed Porter is a student, teacher, and guide of mountain travel. With numerous professional credentials, decades of diverse mountain travel, and a handful of standard-setting mountain endeavors, Jed keeps his finger on the pulse of everything wild and steep. Whether skiing, mountaineering, rock climbing, or ice climbing, Jed’s specialty is wild obscurity tackled with intention, introspection, and intelligence.
The Art of the Project
Ben Rueck
This is one of the CAMP trademark clinics that we have been teaching at Craggin’ Classics for years. It aims to help climbers understand and implement the subtle and essential art of projecting. Projecting is what turns good climbers into great climbers. It is an essential mindset for any climber looking to progress. The virtual format of this clinic will cover the four main topics that we normally cover at the events and then we will open the floor to participants to let them guide the conversation so they can get their questions answered.
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Wednesday, October 21 @ 10:30 am MST / Thursday, October 22 @ 10:30 am MST
About Ben: Growing up in the rural farm lands of Western Colorado, rock climbing was the furthest thing from my mind. I didn’t even know it existed. I’d grown to appreciate the outdoors by adventuring through the desert; but never really connected or understood the beauty of being a part of nature. The outdoors was a tool to be used. When I was seventeen that all changed. I was introduced to climbing and the complexity of the sport weaved itself into my life. I was no longer an observer but an active participant in the world around me.
Nutrition for Sport Climbers
Amity Warme
How does diet intersect with training and sending? The short answer is that it is complicated. The good news, though, is that Amity is here to help! In this clinic, we will look at best practices for diet during the different phases of training and sending. I call it the Climbing Nutrition Pyramid and I have found that attention to the details of diet as it intersects with climbing has made as much of a difference in my performance as anything. I look forward to sharing what I know.
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Thursday, October 22 @ 10:30 am MST / Thursday, October 22 @ 4:45 pm MST
About Amity: This is Amity Warme, your Energy Expenditure Enthusiast! I am a dedicated climber, committed to continually honing my skills on the rock, a student in the Sport Nutrition Master’s Program at the University of Colorado, and a chronic over-stoker. I enjoy climbing because it provides a space for me to push my limits, both physically and mentally, while experiencing incredible locations with quality people. I am passionate about nutrition and am psyched to help you maximize your projecting potential with optimal food and fueling strategies!
Unlocking Crucial Beta
Lena Palmer
Unlocking beta on routes is the key to sending. Whether we are on-sight climbing or trying a route for the hundredth time. It requires us to be creative, patient, and sometimes fearless. But even though we have to throw some caution to the wind to make it through the most challenging parts of a project, I actually think attention to detail with beta is the best way to manage our fear and overcome our setbacks on any route. We will cover how to approach projects, tips for memorizing beta and implementing it, and how to climb the ‘easy’ parts of the route to maximize our chances for success in the cruxes.
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
TIMES: Thursday, October 22 @ 8:15 pm MST / Saturday, October 24 @ 8:00 am MST
About Lena: Being born and raised in Japan, rock climbing wasn’t something I even knew existed. But after moving to Utah and spending more time outdoors, I wanted to find a passion that would take me to more wild places. That’s when I fell into rock climbing. Rock climbing helped me grow mentally and emotionally, more than I ever imagined. I’m excited for this opportunity to share some tips I used that helped me progress in a sport I love.
