Skiing conditions are still great in the San Juan Mountains, and warmer lower-mountain recreation options are getting ripe, too. Read on for ski conditions at Mt. Sneffels and climbing conditions in Durango and Black Canyon, plus Josh Kling’s go-to anchor setup for Durango guiding.
CAMP USA athlete and IFMGA guide Jed Porter has spent hundreds of nights in the mountains, with partners and on solo missions. He recently returned from a solo trip to the rarely skied Dragon Peak in King’s Canyon National Park of California’s Sierra Nevada, and came back with some reflections of his time up high.
Alpinism as a discipline requires a unique kind of physical fitness and mental fortitude that typical training cannot deliver. We are not building muscles to see our mass grow and we are not training in adverse conditions so we can have a story to tell our friends at the bar. We do these things because our unique discipline requires them. At the base level of athleticism for alpinism is what I call OFF THE COUCH (OTC) fitness. It is the level we know we are capable of at any moment given our standard level of fitness, prowess and experience.
Taping the backs of your hands makes crack climbing faster, more protected, and insulates the hands from cold and wet rock. These benefits of taping up are obvious and should have you sold on using tape gloves. The only exception to them would be on a sustained thin-hands crack, where you’ll be wishing your hands were narrower. We’ve tasked CAMP athlete Blake Herrington, the human multi-tool, to create a list of other things tape is good for on big rock routes and in the alpine.
Born in 1973, Denis Urubko is one of the strongest Himalayan alpinists of all time. He has climbed all of the 8000 meter peaks without oxygen and has opened alpine style new routes on Broad Peak, Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. He is also credited with the first winter ascents of Makalu and Gasherbrum II. Denis’ story is unique and incredible and inspired us to create this video where Denis tells about himself and his experiences. Enjoy the show!
Mark Smiley is an IFMGA-certified mountain guide who has been working on a multi-year project to climb all 50 routes made famous by the book 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Mark has climbed and skied around the world, and he shares his packing and planning wisdom to get you tuned up for ski mountaineering.
Born in 1973, Denis Urubko is one of the strongest Himalayan alpinists of all time. He has climbed all of the 8000 meter peaks without oxygen and has opened alpine style new routes on Broad Peak, Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. He is also credited with the first winter ascents of Makalu and Gasherbrum II. […]
Ropes for climbing are each certified for 1, 2, or 3 different designations. Each of these designations requires passing separate tests. Knowing your ropes is key to climbing big routes on rock, snow, or ice. When teaching clinics for the American Alpine Club Craggin’ Classics, we hear many questions about ropes. Here’s one that recently […]
Building anchors quickly and without extra gear is a skill that will allow you to move fast on approaches, descents, and while leading. If you don’t carry extra anchor-specific gear on your harness, you will be able to hike and climb faster. And if your anchor is clean and simple, you’ll be able to transition […]
The American Alpine Club Craggin’ Classics are back and as part of our commitment as National Title Sponsor, CAMP is proud to be offering an intensive clinic on one of our favorite topics … Huge Days with a Light Rack. The clinic focused on making multi-pitch rock climbing faster and more efficient so we can […]