The Alpine Start reviewed our keynose Dyon Wiregate carabiners, and put them through the ringer with months of steady use. The gear testers used a rack of Dyons for climbing ice and mixed routes in the Canadian Rockies wearing thick gloves and also brought the summer cragging and on multipitch rock routes.
Their Dyon verdict?
My new favourite biners, for pretty much everything.
The Dyon’s nose is barely 5-mm thick at the tip and a maximum of 9-mm through the basket which means it can fit into tighter spots, such as knots or chains, and into crowded anchor points. (As compared to a Petzl Spirit which is 6.5-mm at the nose and 11-mm at the basket. A Wild Country Helium, one of the original clean-nose wire gates, is 13-mm at the tip and 9-mm at the basket.)
On my rack, the Dyon draws have single-handedly replaced my long-time favourite Camp Photon winter/alpine draws and my Petzl Spirit bolt-clipping favourites. So now instead of two different racks of quickdraws, I just have a selection of Dyon draws in short, long, alpine (single-length sling) and screamer versions.