Mark Smiley is a climber, skier, and mountain guide who has teamed up with his wife Janelle in an attempt to climb each of the 50 routes described in Steck and Roper’s famous 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Mark recently returned from another attempt at climbing Middle Triple Peak in the Kichatna Spires of […]
Archives for June 2016
Light & Fast Alpinism: Multipitch Communication KISS
Staying in communication with a partner is crucial, and can be hampered by terrain, noise, confusion of other parties, and lack of daylight. There are many options that teams have used, ranging from heavy and fragile walktie-talkies, to simply “winging it” and assuming when one is on or off belay. To minimize risk and the chance […]
Expedition to the Kichatna Spires
Guides/climbers/skiers Mark and Janelle Smiley have been working on a goal to climb all 50 of the famous rock included in the Steck and Roeper book 50 Classic Climbs of North America. They report back from a trip to Alaska’s Kichatna Spires, attempting one of the routes remaining to be done. East Buttress – Middle […]
Huge Days with a Light Rack: Rope Organization
One of the most important parts of a steady, efficient, and fast climbing system is to keep your rope system organized and untangled. That process should occur in 3 main components: The Ropes: try and flake the rope (or ropes) into loops of roughly equal size, going back and forth across your tie-in point, your […]
Gym to Crag – A Gear List
Gym climbing has exploded in popularity in recent years, which has lead to an enormous increase in first-time outdoor climbers. Are you someone who has learned to climb in a gym, but wants to get set up to start heading outside for some introductory rock climbing? Assuming you’ve already got basic shoes, harness, and a […]
Meet Jed Porter
Jed Porter, based in the Sierra, has been skiing for most of his 36 year life, and climbing since 1999. He is a new member of our team of affiliate guides. How did you start Mountain Guiding and why did you stick with it? I think I always knew it was what I wanted […]
Meet Max Tepfer
CAMP USA is proud to partner with our newest affiliate mountain guide, Max Tepfer. Max, just 30 years old, lives in Bend, Oregon and guides across the western United States. He has established new trad climbs up to 5.13- and enjoys teaching climbing to folks of any ability level. How did you start climbing and […]
