CAMP USA athlete Paige Claassen calls Oregon's Smith Rock State Park her favorite crag on earth. In between working (and sending) a classic 5.14 testpiece of this iconic area, Paige has developed a few do-not-miss routes, foods, and rest-day activities that are perfect for anyone visiting the area, no matter if you are working on 5.5 or 5.15.
When choosing a destination for your next climbing trip, the climbing can’t be the only determining factor. While climbing is important, the weather, food, people, and hangout are considerations that must weigh in as well. For this reason, Smith Rock is undoubtedly my favorite crag in the world. At Smith, you get world class climbing without giving up any creature comforts AND the locals are welcoming. What could be better? I think nothing. So without further ado, here are 5 things you can’t miss at Smith.
1. Zebra Zion: This classic 3 pitch 5.10 is so fun you’ll have trouble finding a time when no one is on it. But it’s worth the early alarm to beat the crowds – the final 5.9 pitch is unbelievably fun, and leads to a great lookout over the entire park.
2. Trail running: The perfectly manicured trails of Smith Rock State Park provide endless opportunities for runners of all levels. Take the flat trail back to the Monkey for a leisurely jog or the steep route over Misery Ridge if you’re feeling ambitious.
3. Whipping off a slab: Whether you like it or not, it’s bound to happen. So embrace the fact that you are likely to fall while run out 15 feet above a bolt. Choose your belayer wisely and enjoy the ride!
4. Watch the locals run laps on your project: Churning in the Wake, Heinous Cling, Disposable Heroes. They’ll claim it’s easier for them because they’ve done it 300 times. Even so, it’s impressive.
5. Chocolate banana bread pudding at the Terrebonne Depot: You won’t be disappointed by any choice on the menu, but this delicacy is to die for. If you must, save it as a reward on send day. But in case you don’t send, swing by and grab a piece for the ride home.